Milan

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For Henry James, Milan's reserved northern European flavour made it more "the last of the prose capitals than the first of the poetic". But there is poetry in Milan in spite of its modernity. Milan (Milano) is one of the world's fashion capitals, and home to both Leonardo's Last Supper and the world's premier opera house, La Scala. Above all, Milan is the centre of business in Italy and it is here and in provincial Lombardy that the demand for federalism - embodied by the right-wing Northern League - is strongest.

The prosperous Milanese are courteous but reserved towards visitors and preoccupied with their own lives. On the recently restored Piazza del Duomo , Milan's many worlds converge. The large equestrian statue standing at one end of the square honours Italy's first king, Victor Emmanuel (after whom major boulevards in cities throughout Italy are named). On two sides the piazza is lined with porticoes, where Milanese of all ages and styles love to gather. To the north is the entrance to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Italy's oldest and most elegant shopping mall. Its four-storey arcade is full of boutiques, bookshops, bars and restaurants.

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